havepenwilltravel

A Lourie's view of KZN

2009-11-25T09:21:00.001+02:00

It was my husband's birthday, and we were visiting his family in Howick. We awoke to be informed that they were giving us a special birthday 'treat', and that we should get dressed quickly as the 'surprise' was a little drive away.
“Don't wear a skirt”, my sister-in-law told me. This comment should have fueled my suspicious mind; but it didn't. I thought we were in for a delicious breakfast at some quaint country retreat, that the Midlands meander is famous for. I couldn't have been more wrong.

Those that know me well, know that I have an atrocious sense of direction, and I suffer from vertigo. As road signs began pointing the direction to the Karlkloof indigenous forest, the penny still didn't drop. Even my sister-in-law's cheesy grin didn't give away the fact that I was about to face my fear of heights.

We pulled into the parking area of the Karlkloof Canopy Tour, only to realise that the surprise was a 3-hour eco-adventure through the magnificent indigenous forest. I secretly cursed my sister-in-law for not informing me of her plan, so that I could be better prepared. Not wearing high heel boots would have helped some, and taking copious amounts of rescue remedy would have calmed the butterflies that were doing Thai kick-boxing in my stomach, as the reality of the situation set in. In retrospect I am glad that she never told me, as I may have managed to conjure up an excuse not to go along, and after experiencing this eco-tour, I enthusiastically recommend it to all. After all, as the saying goes “ Courage is not the absence of fear, it is the conquest of it”.

The tour started with us being kitted up with full safety harnesses, pulleys, ropes and helmets. I felt as though I had enough safety equipment to climb Everest; all that was missing was an oxygen mask. I suppose I should have found this re-assuring, but all it did was send the butterflies into a panic-induced frenzy – Oh for some rescue remedy, or a stiff gin and tonic.

The very competent guides checked and re-checked our safety gear, and instructed us on the dos and don't s of whizzing through the air on a cable 30m above the ground, before taking us on a short but scenic drive to the starting platform.

There were seven in our group, including a well-known SA rugby player, but I won't name drop. There are two guides per group. One leads the way, and waits on the next platform, while the other sends each adventurer on their way, gliding through the air like a flying fox. When you reach the other side, the first guide is there to safely clip you to the platform, while you wait for the others. In this way, you are always clipped onto either the cable, and a second safety cable, or the platform on which you are waiting.

The canopy tour involves travelling from one platform to another, along a steel cable suspended up to 30m above the forest floor. There are seven platforms, joined by eight 'foefie' slides, the longest being 170m! As you zig-zag through a pristine forested valley, (try) keep your eyes open as the scenery is spectacular as is the abundant bird life. You have time to catch your breath on each platform, while the guides fill you in on the flora and fauna of this Midlands forest ecology. You will have the opportunity to spot Emerald Cuckoos, Knysna Loeries, a wide variety of raptors and if you are lucky, the elusive Narina Trogon or endangered Cape Parrots. The forest is also home to a variety of mammals, but it is the vocal calls of the Samago monkeys that you will remember best as they swing through the trees.

If you are worried that you will miss out on all these sights by not being able to keep your eyes open as you speed down the cable, you have the option of going tandem with a guide. If you are not sure of your capabilities, then this is a good option. I conquered the first two slides on my own, but failed to keep my eyes open, and had to rely on the others in our group shouting 'Brake! Brake!' for me to stop in time and not plough into the platform. I then chose to go tandem with a guide, allowing me to take in the views, as I didn't have to concentrate on not crashing. There are places when you have to lift your legs to avoid branches, so keeping your eyes open is definitely an advantage.

Canopy tours originated in the tropical rain forests of Costa Rica, where biologists devised a system of cables and platforms to explore and study the previously inaccessible upper forest canopy. This soon evolved into a successful form of adventure and eco- tourism, raising awareness of the plight of the world's endangered rain forests. Construction of the Karlkloof Canopy Tour has been done in accordance with strict civil engineering standards, and a full environmental impact study was done, and approved by the department of environmental affairs before construction began.

We are more likely to regret those things we haven't done, than the things we have done, so if you find yourself in the Midlands area, be sure to try swinging through the trees.

" Life is NOT a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming -- ’WOW, what a ride!!! "
Anonymous

www.karlkloofcanopytour.co.za info@karlkloofcanopytour.co.za
Tel: +27 (033) 3303415 or (076) 2412888

Group size: Maximum 7 per group.
Departure times: Every hour from 8:00 to 15:00.
Tours are conducted in all weather conditions.
Booking essential.
Daily numbers limited.
Who can go: Anyone between 7 & 70 years old!
Cost: R395.00 includes refreshments, lunch, guides and all equipment

Kids in the Kruger Park

2009-09-22T09:16:00.004+02:00

We have just returned from a trip to the Kruger Park, having driven over 5000km on the round trip, with a 6-year old in the car. Next time we will definitely fly! It is in fact closer to drive to Mozambique from the Cape, than to the Kruger Park, and the driving of course doesn't stop once you are in the park!
But, once you get past the whole driving nightmare, the Kruger Park is a great place for the kids. We stayed in a private camp, Roodewal, which consists of 4 newly refurbished bungalows, a central kitchen and central dining room. The camp was spectacular, overlooking a river bed - dry now, as it isn't the rainy season. The option of a private camp is great for families, as the kids can play around camp (when you are not in the car...) without disturbing other guests. There is adequate space to them to run about and ride their bikes after being cooped up in the car.
The resident vervet monkeys also proved to be very entertaining to the kids. They had strict instructions 'NOT TO FEED THE MONKEYS' but monkeys being what they are, and kids being somewhat forgetful, meant that the odd rusk got snatched from a child's hand, and scurried up a tree to be devoured out of reach. A bright orange wristwatch was even snatched on one occasion, presumably resembling a delectable fruit to a hungry vervet monkey. It was later returned, somewhat worse for the wear.
Our kids were not the only young in the park. Below are some photos of wildlife with their young:
an elephant cow with her day-old baby, ears still curling from the womb
a giraffe with her young - all legs
a hyena with her pups
Many an 'oooh' and 'aaah' and 'oh cute' were whispered from our vehicle.

September is tourism month

2009-09-02T09:49:00.003+02:00

September is tourism month! Hermanus is welcoming both local and international tourists to our magnificent town. Here is a list of events in Hermanus as well as the rest of the Overstrand region during September. Click on the table to enlarge it. We hope to see you in Hermanus soon, and remember that we have a fantastic selection of accommodation on offer:
www.marinesquare.co.za
www.holidayhouses-sa.co.za
www.aloe-guest-house.co.za
www.16reasons.co.za

lost in translation..

2009-07-07T13:25:00.000+02:00

In a Bangkok temple:
IT IS FORBIDDEN TO ENTER A WOMAN, EVEN A FOREIGNER, IF DRESSED AS A MAN.

Cocktail lounge , Norway :
LADIES ARE REQUESTED NOT TO HAVE CHILDREN IN THE BAR.

Doctors office, Rome :
SPECIALIST IN WOMEN AND OTHER DISEASES,

Dry cleaners, Bangkok :
DROP YOUR TROUSERS HERE FOR THE BEST RESULTS.

In a Nairobi restaurant:
CUSTOMERS WHO FIND OUR WAITRESSES RUDE OUGHT TO SEE THE MANAGER.

On the main road to Mombassa, leaving Nairobi :
TAKE NOTICE: WHEN THIS SIGN IS UNDER WATER, THIS ROAD IS IMPASSABLE.

On a poster at Kencom:
ARE YOU AN ADULT THAT CANNOT READ? IF SO WE CAN HELP.

In a City restaurant:
OPEN SEVEN DAYS A WEEK AND WEEKENDS.

In a cemetery:
PERSONS ARE PROHIBITED FROM PICKING FLOWERS FROM ANY BUT THEIR OWN GRAVES .

Tokyo hotel's rules and regulations:
GUESTS ARE REQUESTED NOT TO SMOKE OR DO OTHER DISGUSTING BEHAVIOURS IN BED.

On the menu of a Swiss restaurant:
OUR WINES LEAVE YOU NOTHING TO HOPE FOR.

In a Tokyo bar:
SPECIAL COCKTAILS FOR THE LADIES WITH NUTS.

Hotel , Yugoslavia :
THE FLATTENING OF UNDERWEAR WITH PLEASURE IS THE JOB OF THE CHAMBERMAID.

Hotel , Japan :
YOU ARE INVITED TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE CHAMBERMAID.

In the lobby of a Moscow hotel across from a Russian Orthodox monastery:
YOU ARE WELCOME TO VISIT THE CEMETERY WHERE FAMOUS RUSSIAN AND SOVIET COMPOSERS, ARTISTS AND WRITERS ARE BURIED DAILY EXCEPT THURSDAY.

A sign posted in Germany 's Black Forest :
IT IS STRICTLY FORBIDDEN ON OUR BLACK FOREST CAMPING SITE THAT PEOPLE OF DIFFERENT S#X, FOR INSTANCE, MEN AND WOMEN, LIVE TOGETHER IN ONE TENT UNLESS THEY ARE MARRIED WITH EACH OTHER FOR THIS PURPOSE.

Hotel, Zurich :
BECAUSE OF THE IMPROPRIETY OF ENTERTAINING GUESTS OF THE OPPOSITE S#X IN THE BEDROOM, IT IS SUGGESTED THAT THE LOBBY BE USED FOR THIS PURPOSE.

Advertisement for donkey rides, Thailand :
WOULD YOU LIKE TO RIDE ON YOUR OWN ASS?

Airline ticket office, Copenhagen :
WE TAKE YOUR BAGS AND SEND THEM IN ALL DIRECTIONS.

A laundry in Rome :
LADIES, LEAVE YOUR CLOTHES HERE AND SPEND THE AFTERNOON HAVING A GOOD TIME.

ART THIRST

2009-06-05T11:53:00.005+02:00

Writers and artists both draw from their environment for inspiration. So, as a writer, I can appreciate good local art. Once you get to know the artist, you can often see where their inspiration has come from. Their art becomes an extension of their travels, both places and people that they meet becoming infused into their work. Sometimes this inspiration will be right next door, sometimes much further afield.

When you are next in Hermanus, do your self a favour and have a browse through a fantastic gallery known as ART THIRST. Artists Leon Muller and Petrus Viljoen have brought the gallery to life with their pieces created from the heart. Styles and themes change depending on the mood of the artist, so you will see Oils on canvas ranging from still life, nudes and landscapes - often with a fun element added. Other mediums are used to add texture and depth.
Have a look at the pictures below:
ART THIRST, High Street, Hermanus. leonmullerart@gmail.com, 0726826590

All of South Africa gearing up for 2010

2009-05-28T13:39:00.004+02:00

Most South Africans are excited about the 2010 World cup being hosted in South Africa.
It is common knowledge that there are not enough beds to sleep all the visitors expected. It seems entrepreneurs are sprouting up everywhere with innovative solutions to this problem. Below is an example. How cute are the flowers on the balcony?

Dalai Lama

2009-05-15T14:17:00.003+02:00

Finally, the Dalai Lama has been granted a visa into South Africa! A bit of Friday fun..

The first Cape winter storms are due to set in this weekend, so wrap up warm, and get out the soup recipes!
Rosanne

The funny side of accommodation management

2009-05-14T10:35:00.000+02:00

As the owner of several accommodation establishments, our run-of-mill, day to day activities are sometimes spiced up by the antics of our guests. In the interest of guest's privacy no names or establishments will be mentioned in this post, but be assured that they are all true!

Not so long ago, a couple staying in one of our establishments informed us that the air-conditioning was not working in their room. "Not a problem, we will move you to another room as the technician won't be able to repair it till Monday" was the professional response of our manager. They moved their belongings to the room next door, quite happy with this arrangement. Cleaners were sent in to clean the first room, only to discover that an item had been left behind by the couple. The rather embarrassed cleaner brought the item to reception: A vibrator had been left in the bed....

Needless to say, on check out, the lady did not show her face, and the gentleman was presented with a plastic packet containing the lost and found item; the reception staff tactfully letting him know that he had forgotten something in the first room. Comment in the guest book: 'we thoroughly enjoyed our stay' ... I bet you did!

We have a regular at one of our establishments, a vibrant lady well into her 70's. She lives in a neighbouring town, and comes to us for a naughty weekend with her toy boy... (he is about 30 years old). On her last stay, she paid cash as her husband had seen reference to her antics on her credit card statement. On one particular visit, our manager asked another guest at breakfast if they had a good nights sleep, only to be told that no, as the couple next door had been 'at it all night' and very loudly at that! The manager apologised. When they replied, not to worry, it was probably a honeymoon couple, and discretely asked who was staying next door to them. When the manager quietly gestured in the direction of the elderly lady and her toy boy, sitting a few tables away, the guest nearly choked on his breakfast, and replied that he hoped he was still that active in that department at the age of 70!

Foreigners especially don't seem to care what they get up to. Perhaps it is because that are more liberal and less inhibited that South Africans, or perhaps they just don't care, with the attitude of 'Oh well, they will never see me again'.

More tales to follow....

what to do this weekend?

2009-05-08T11:49:00.005+02:00

HI Everyone.
It is an absolutely gorgeous day in Hermanus, not a cloud in sight and that morning winter chill has lifted.
For those of you who read my article on gotravel24 about the Saturday morning markets in Hermanus, please note the following change:
The Fernkloof Farmer's market has relocated to the Montessori School for winter, to give the nature reserve's ground a bit of a break from the hordes seeking out delicious local fare for the weekend.
This venue will be ideal for winter, offering some stoep cover in the event of a drizzle, there is plenty of parking and ample space and playground equipment for the kids while you catch up with friends and get your caffeine fix for the morning.
See you there and have a fantastic weekend! the good weather is set to stay for the next couple of days.
Rosanne

What's in a name

2009-04-20T15:53:00.003+02:00

I wonder how often parents give any thought to naming their children, and the effect it will have on them later in life. Sometimes we marry into an unfortunate name, giving reason to the option of keeping one's maiden name for more than just professional reasons.

But imagine the hassle this poor guy has when traveling... Each time he arrives at passport control, it must be a case of 'here we go again..'

Customs Official: 'May I have your name please sir?'
Passenger: 'Batman'
Customs Official: 'What's your name!?'
Passenger: 'My name is Bat-man'
Customs Official: 'Trying to be funny are we!? What's your surname sir?'
Passenger : 'Superman'
Customs Official: 'So your surname is Superman?
Passenger: Yes sir...
Customs Offcial: So you're telling me your name is Batman Superman?'
Passenger: 'Yes'
Customs Official: 'Arrest this man please...

When they had him in custody, he was asked to show his identification card...

A perfect Easter weekend in Hermanus

2009-04-14T16:12:00.001+02:00

Well once again, the weather was the best marketing tool for Hermanus, and played along nicely for all the Easter visitors. Perfect autumn evenings to sip sundowners, family-filled beaches and a festive vibe were just what holidaymakers ordered to make the most of the last of summer.
If you didn't manage to get away for Easter, there is still another long weekend coming up! in fact, if you take just 3 days leave, YOU GET A 9 DAY BREAK! well that just makes perfect sense to you corporates out there.
Many accommodation establishments are offering last minute specials to catch the last of the holiday season's traffic before winter sets in. (In Hermanus, at least winter brings the whales..) have a look at www.holidayhouses-sa.co.za for some long weekend specials.

If you are looking for something fun to do over the freedom day weekend, There is a music festival on in Hermanus at the Village Piazza on both the Friday and Saturday night. call the Hermanus info Bureau for more info. 028-3122629. The restaurants surrounding the piazza all sell tickets to the show, you sit at the restaurant of your choice to watch the artists performing. For the best pizzas in town try out Paradiso... this will be a great place to see the show, while enjoying a perfect thin-base pizza.

I will keep you posted as to what is on offer in Hermanus, and you will also be the first to know when the first whale arrives for the season!

morning markets and movies in the cellar

2009-03-28T10:34:00.001+02:00

© By Rosanne Turner (written for www.gotravel24.com)
Morning markets and movies in the cellar – a typical Hermanus weekend

The aroma of cinnamon pancakes always evokes strong childhood memories and a sense of ‘feel good’. A tough choice each Saturday morning is deciding at which farmers market to enjoy this sweet treat.

The choice at hand is between the sophisticated and trendy Boeremark held at Hermanuspietersfontein, which is only a 2-minute walk from home, or a short drive to the Fernkloof Farmers Market, a more typical country affair. I honestly can’t say which is the better of the two; you will have to experience both and make the decision yourself – if you can!

A friendly scarecrow directs you from the Main Road in Voelklip, towards the Fernkloof Nature Reserve where the farmers market is held every Saturday morning. Arrive early – the market starts at 8:00am – to get parking, and ensure your favourite treat isn’t sold out. Everyone has their ‘must have’ delicacy. For my husband, it is the organic filter coffee, and a Stanford Slice – an old-fashioned custard slice, very different from the premix type found in supermarkets these days. I need my weekend fix of fresh spanakopita or a delicious Mediterranean veggie pie, followed by moist triple chocolate brownies.

My daughter (never a big eater), buys a packet of sunflower seeds, unusual for a child I know, and heads off to Kids Clay, where she remains entertained for hours, to create a little masterpiece, to add to the cupboard-full already at home.
As a local, it is never necessary to arrange to meet friends at the market; you will always catch up with a few. As the kids get creative with the clay, play in the sandpit or with the hula-hoops for sale, adults get a caffeine dose and debate what to do for the weekend. A local marimba band usually adds to the laid-back atmosphere. For the health conscious, there are many options available, from wheat-free baked goods to organic vegetables and freshly squeezed juices. If Saturday is your ‘cheat day’, then plenty of decadent delights are on offer.

A little more sophisticated, but equally as laid back, is the Boeremark, held at Hermanuspietersfontein. Somehow, here it seems quite acceptable to enjoy a glass of wine at 9:00am with breakfast. Grab a complimentary plate and cutlery, (no paper variety here), and start at one end, loading up from your favourite stalls. Buy a bottle of wine, made on the premises, find a table under a shade umbrella, and relax as you while-away the morning, a great way to start the weekend. If you get really into it, stay and watch Saturday afternoon rugby, shown on a big screen in the winery, while sipping on Hermanuspietersfontein wines – a more refined option that the usual beer and biltong viewing.

If your weekend away to Hermanus starts on a Friday night, I can highly recommend trying Movie night in the cellar at Hermanuspietersfontein. You will need to book in advance, and it is not every Friday, so give the cellar a call to find out the schedule.
We arrived with friends at the cellar on a Friday evening to watch Mama Mia, not expecting much more than something a little different to do on a Friday night. After all, it was only R20 a ticket. What a pleasant surprise! On arrival, we were presented with a complimentary glass of wine and an old-fashioned paper funnel of popcorn. With the musty aroma of wine barrels around us, we found our seats and took in the atmosphere of the cellar. With surround sound, a big screen and a glass of local wine, this quaint movie option beats the large mall movie houses any day for a memorable evening.

If you decide to spend a weekend away in Hermanus, instead of stocking up at the supermarket for braai and picnic supplies, try visiting the markets for delicious local fare. Instead of a trolley and queues at the supermarket, bring a basket and do your weekend grocery shop in the open air. From home-cured meats, tangy cheeses, pickles, and preserves, to freshly baked breads, decadent cakes and pastries, organic vegetables and even wine, your basket will be overflowing, making for a memorable gastronomic weekend.

Hermanuspietersfontein: contact Ilse-Marie for more details about events: 028 316 1875. www.hpf1855.co.za
Fernkloof Farmers Market: 072 883 3894

Valentines weekend in Hermanus

2009-02-16T12:33:00.004+02:00

Hermanus was abuzz with weekend, with guest houses and restaurants fully booked, and a sense of romance in the air. Of course, romance means something different to each of us, so for many it meant a weekend of sports-watching.
I personally prefer spontaneous romance as opposed to a forced commercial day. If you feel the same way, then why not book a romantic weekend away in Hermanus, for no reason at all! check out the links on this blog for some great accommodation options and enquire about February specials.
For a romantic dinner out, try La Vierge in the Hemel en Aarde Valley: http://www.lavierge.co.za/ for outstanding food and service and exceptional views of the valley.
Alternatively pack a picnic with local fair. Try out the farmers market at Fernkloof and the Boeremark at Hermanuspietersfontein, both on a Saturday morning.
See you in Hermanus!

Wines of the Overberg

2009-02-13T15:48:00.004+02:00

Nectar of the vine
Benjamin Franklin once said, "Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried, with fewer tensions and more tolerance." This certainly seems to ring true of the winemakers of the Overberg. What a life: creating nectar of the vines whilst living in one of the most beautiful areas in our country. Would we expect these wine folk to be anything but as chilled as a good chardonnay should be served?

The Overberg can be distinguished into four different wine regions, namely Swellendam and surrounds, the Overstrand coastal region, Theewaterskloof – including Elgin, Bot River, Villiersdorp and Greyton, and lastly Cape Aghulas – the southern most region of Africa. These wine-producing areas, although newer to the South African wine industry, are by no means inferior to the traditional wine lands of the Boland (Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl). In fact, as any local will tell you, the Overberg is proud of its many award-winning wines. Overberg restaurants support the local estates, and their wine lists offer a choice of outstanding wines from the region. Some go as far as offering only local wines; so confident are they of the standard produced.

An ideal way to start a Saturday would be at the ‘boeremark’ (farmers’ market) at Hermanuspietersfontein. Friends meet here each Saturday morning, over breakfast of cinnamon pancakes, homemade quiche and bacon and egg rolls, finished off with steaming organic coffee. Stock up on gastronomic treats for the weekend: local cheeses, lemon-infused olive oil, chillies and preserves, diet-breaking baked goods to mention but a few. Now make your way up the spectacular Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (Heaven on Earth valley), to savour award-winning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Cool climate and soil condition make this valley ideal for these cultivars. Restaurants have been strategically placed to make the most of sweeping views of vineyards, and across to Walker Bay; the vista ever changing with the seasons. Indulge yourself by making a stop at the Wine Village, for the largest selection of South African wines, presented by truly passionate and knowledgeable staff.

Make your way from the colonial village of Stanford, towards Cape Aghulas, the southernmost point in Africa. Cool maritime breezes to these southern vineyards ensure slow ripening, full-flavoured berries. This route makes for a scenic drive, through quaint villages such as Elim, with its tiny thatched cottages, and Arniston, with everlasting white beaches and shipwreck scattered coastline, to the impressive sight of end of the African continent.

Chill out and enjoy the pace of country living with the locals of the Overberg. You will be pleasantly surprised by what this best-kept-secret wine region has to offer.
written for EXPERIENCE OVERBERG by Rosanne Turner

Awesome Valentine's deal in Hermanus

2009-02-11T14:45:00.003+02:00

Marine Square Luxury Holiday Suites is offering the following amazing Valentines deal:
During the month of February 2009, stay 2 nights and only pay half price for your second night! On valentines weekend, this awesome deal includes a bottle of red or white wine, chocolates and a red rose.
view www.marinesquare.co.za to see the apartments. contact Marine Square on +27 (0)28 3124215 or email: info@marinesquare.co.za to book.

2009-02-10T21:42:00.002+02:00

As this is my first blog post, let me introduce myself:
My name is Rosanne, and I live in one of the most beautiful parts of the world - Hermanus, on the Cape Whale Coast of South Africa.
I am involved in the tourism industry, catering to all accommodation needs, from guest houses, holiday homes as well as 5-star luxury apartments.
Have a look at these websites: www.holidayhouses-sa.co.za, www.marinesquare.co.za, www.16reasons.co.za and www.aloe-guest-house.co.za
My passion is traveling and travel writing. Living in the Overberg, or Cape Whale Coast, means that I don't have to travel far to find an adventure to write about. Writing travel articles for www.gotravel24.com is a good excuse to take a day off work for 'research', all in the name of good journalism.
Keep an eye on this blog for interesting things to do in and around Hermanus, what is happening and where to stay.
Here is my recent experience with Shark-diving Unlimited:

Braving the Shark Alley

As I dropped my daughter off at Granny’s at 6:30am, en-route to Gansbaai and the Great Whites, she said to me, “Mommy, please don’t get in the cage, I don’t want a step-mom!” These insightful words from a 5-year old got me thinking about preconceived ideas, and the misperceptions that we all have, drummed into us from fiction books and film. As children perceive step-moms to be mean and evil, from fairytales such as Cinderella and Snow White, so we perceive Sharks to be mindless killing machines, from films such as Steven Spielberg’s ‘Jaws’. I decided there and then to approach my shark-cage diving trip with an open mind, leaving all preconceived notions behind, and make the most of the experience that Shark Diving Unlimited had to offer.

We arrived at the Shark Diving Unlimited crew house, overlooking a thankfully flat sea and the picturesque Kleinbaai harbour, where our adventure vessel, the 12.5m ‘Barracuda’, was being prepared for our memorable experience. Over a hearty breakfast and steaming coffee to wash down the seasickness tablets, we signed the mandatory indemnity forms – if this doesn’t give you second thoughts, then the DVD playing in the background, of Michael Rutzen, Shark Diving Unlimited owner, free-diving with Great Whites, just might. Michael is known for documentaries on both National Geographic and Discovery Channels, capturing his unique ability to interact with these apex predators of the ocean, outside the safety of the cage.

After a briefing by Frank Rutzen, Michael’s brother, and skipper, we walked the few hundred metres to the harbour where Barracuda and her crew where waiting for us to board. Our group consisted of an assortment of foreigners, including a family with an 8-year old child, (who actually went into the cage). This was my last chance to back out, but I convinced myself that if Brad Pitt, Leonardo DiCaprio and HRH Prince Harry entrusted Frank to skipper them safely, then who was I to disagree.

The stable Barracuda powered across the ocean for about 15 minutes, the staff chumming the waters with a pungent concoction of liquid and rotting fish heads as we went. The mixture of chum and engine fuel, threatened to make some passengers’ breakfast resurface. (I highly recommend taking seasickness tablets, available at the kiosk at the harbour). When Frank decided the spot was right, anchor was dropped and the cage lowered into the water and secured to the side of the boat. Frank briefed all those that would be diving, on safety with the number one rule being: “I have only one word for anyone that doesn’t keep their hands inside the cage – Para-Olympic games.” This was in fact two words, but the message came across loud and clear.

Within ten minutes, there were shouts of ‘shark! Shark!’ from the crew that had been trawling a large fish head as a lure, and pouring more of the putrid fish liquid overboard. We were lucky, sometimes it could be hours before the star attraction does its guest appearance.

The first six divers quickly suited up, and entered the cage. My husband was one of the first in, this being old hat, as it was his tenth time shark-cage diving.

The first visitor was about 3.8m according to Frank. There was great excitement as she approached the bait, with Frank luring her right in front of the cage for the divers to view, always keeping the bait just out of reach. (It is against the shark-diving code of ethics to feed the sharks.) As the spotters shouted “Down! Down!”, divers took a deep breath and dropped below the surface of the water to view what they had come to see - some of them from half way across the world. First a black shadow in the distance, and suddenly a gaping jaw and an intelligent eye as she honed in on the lure. with a thrash of her tail she made a rapid turn as the bait was pulled beyond her grasp.

I had a seagull’s perspective from the viewing deck, and had my camera ready each time I heard cries of “shark! Down now!”. The expressions on the faces of the divers as they climbed back onto the boat was that of pure exhilaration, as if they had ventured into an unknown world and lived to tell the tale.

In total, five Great Whites were spotted on our trip, ranging in size from 3-4 metres. During the winter months, sharks feed in the area known as ‘Shark Alley’, between Dyer Island, home to over 50 000 cape fur seals, and Geyser rock. In the summer months, their feeding grounds move to the shallower waters of the bay, just beyond the breakers, where their diet changes to rays, smaller sharks species and migratory fish. Surfers and bathers will be flabbergasted at just how close to the shore they are.

A shark-cage diving experience is one to remember. Adrenaline junkies can enter the cage for an underwater thrill, and not-so-brave eco-tourists or the just curious will get an equally enthralling experience viewing these powerful predators from the boat.

Although I still maintain a healthy respect for Great Whites, I can now appreciate them with a higher level of understanding, obtained from the informative skipper, the documentary DVD of Michael Rutzen as well as observing these animals at such close quarters. No engineer could design a machine better purpose-built than nature has done with the Great White. With a combination of streamlined form, powerful muscles, fine-tuned senses and intelligence, I can see the fascination that mankind, and specifically the media has with these creatures. It is natural to fear the unknown. With knowledge, this fear moves towards respect, and a trip with a knowledgeable and ethical operator such as Shark Diving Unlimited will dispel myths and misconceptions, as I found out.

www.sharkdivingunlimited.com info@sharkdivingunlimited.com tel: 082 4414 555